Marques Almeida AW16... Hitting all the right seasonal spots
At a glance, Marques Almeida’s AW16 collection is a disparate array of influences, shapes, colours and fabrics. Which is kind of the point – it’s charmingly unorthodox and, consequently, head-turningly brilliant. Cohesiveness is usurped by creativity: does a green tie-dye slip dress go with orange dogtooth? Does it matter? It feels fun… Such a free-minded approach courses throughout the collection, things that you wouldn’t expect to work somehow do. Surprises are presented with an assuredness that leaves you with a feeling that these people know what they’re doing. And then, quite quickly, you’re hooked.
Here are some of the key details from one of the most exciting young brands to have landed at 18montrose this season…
Raw edge everything
“Fashion is about attitude not hemlines” is the Helmut Langism which guides Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. AW16 sees the duo taking that quote quite literally, disregarding hemlines altogether in favour of a raw, unfinished edges throughout the collection. There is a freeness to the whole affair – garments are only partially completed, not through carelessness but in an embrace of imperfection. The Japanese call this “wabi-sabi”; Marta and Paulo call this attitude.
Frayed jean hems are undoubtedly having a bit of a moment at present, but Marques Almeida’s exactingly ragged denim creations are at the very core of the brand, tracing back to their earliest collections. Autumn Winter sees this signature woven throughout the collection, appearing on shirt hems and asymmetric dresses, often providing a perfect juxtaposition to a kitsch tablecloth-style check or humble indigo-dyed denim.
Buckles, braces, zips, toggles – AW16 saw brands from across the spectrum sizing up on their hardware, Marques Almeida were no different. Shirts and tops with zip fastenings embellished with large, silver D-rings; cuff buttons were replaced with similar.
The crisp, static-like swish of a zip can reportedly inspire levels of “low-grade euphoria” in those who experience ASMR (Autonomous sensory meridian response) – but perhaps that’s not the only people such sensations are limited to. Marques Almeida’s military-style parka is likely to elicit such responses from outerwear aficionados regardless of gender – the chunky, silver, two-way zip perfectly accenting a vibrant Kelly Green.
Flares. Yes, really.
You probably thought this day was never going to come, a style that would be confined to the dustbin of history, like jelly shoes and nova-check, but you’d be wrong. Bootcut is back… We were just as surprised as you, but this season’s flared houndstooth pants sidesteps the sartorial stereotype with consummate ease. The stitched front-seams cut an intriguing yet wearable shape, and the orange-tinted houndstooth chimes perfectly with an industry rediscovering its affinity for a dash of 70s kitsch.